The Iseltrail

On September 24, we take the train from Vienna to Lienz. It is the "Day of Rivers" - which is fitting, as the next day we start a hike along the Isel, the longest free-flowing glacial river in the Eastern Alps.

Well rested and stocked up on the day's provisions, we set off on the third stage of the day: from the road towards Virgental, turn left at the transformer house, walk along the Isel for a while, turn right at the four wooden wayside shrines and walk up through the hamlet of Ganz. We walk through farming villages and forests, across meadows and streams, pass a fish pond, meet sheep and cows. The Isel flows far below the hiking trail in places, even through a deep gorge between the villages of Bobojach and Welzelach. A suspension bridge was recently built over the gorge so that you can take a look into this inaccessible wilderness.

Shortly before Prägraten, we admire the variety of stones that the Isel has brought with it from the mountains on a large gravel surface. On the bank, a large, somewhat faded plaque tells us that the Isel was declared a "river sanctuary" in 1998. Despite this, ten years later plans were made to divert a large part of the water to a power station at the end of the valley. Only the tenacious resistance of the local population and the designation of the Isel as a Natura 2000 site stopped the project. We walk up to Prägraten and take the bus to our accommodation in Hinterbichl.

Up to Hinterbichl, the Iseltrail is also suitable for people who are not used to alpine hikes. However, the last two stages require sturdy hiking boots, warm clothing and a hut sleeping bag. First, the trail climbs steeply up towards the glacier, past the Umbal Falls waterfall trail. From viewing platforms, we look down into the thundering water and deep gorges - it's hard to imagine that insects such as the glacier stream mosquito or birds such as the dipper can live here.

After the waterfalls, we walk above the tree line on a narrow path past alpine flowers and currants to the Clara Hut of the German Alpine Club, which is tucked into the slope. Karin, the landlady of the hut, serves us coffee and cake and gives us tips for the rest of the way: it now takes around two hours to reach the source of the Isel, the Umbalkees, she says, as the glacier has retreated considerably due to global warming. Only very fit mountaineers can manage the route from Hinterbichl to the source of the Isel and back, which is why an overnight stay at the Clarahütte is recommended. Depending on the length of the day, your physical condition and the weather, you can continue to the Umbalkees and back to the hut in the afternoon or start the next morning and then descend to Hinterbichl.

On the way towards the glacier, at more than 2,000 meters above sea level, the Isel becomes a young wild spring, foaming white and noisily leaping over the rocks. A shallow lake has formed in front of the glacier. Behind it, a wire rope helps you cross the slabs of rock that have been polished smooth by the glacier to reach the not-so-eternal ice. It is the end of September, the sun is a balmy 25 degrees and you can literally watch it flow away. At the finish, there is a pyramid made of steel and stones for a "summit photo". Now you should think about how long the way back to the Clara hut is so that you get there in time before nightfall.

After a peaceful night under a stunning starry sky and a hearty breakfast, it's time to make our way home. First we walk briskly across meadows and past waterfalls to Hinterbichl, then the bus takes us back to Lienz. Isel, we'll be back!